Camping on Camino de Santiago

Before leaving on the Camino we were neither mountaineers nor hardcore campers. We had been to the seaside with the tent a few times but as amateurs. We had the cheapest tent from Decathlon (that green one for two persons) and no cooking equipment.
Now we earned some experience and we are proud of it. We spent about half of the nights on the Camino de Santiago camping and the other half in albergues.
Few people carry their tent with them on the Camino for the simplest reason. It is very heavy, and on the Camino every gram matters. Also, various people with experience on the Camino told us that it is almost impossible to camp on the trail. And that in Spain it’s forbidden and that you have nowhere to do it!
We were stubborn and decided not to listen to them. We told ourselves that if it was going to be that difficult, we will pack all the camping equipment and send it home. Or to Santiago to wait for us until we arrive.
Yet, we do not regret even for a moment that we have taken our tent! It was the best decision we made about Camino!
WHY TAKE YOUR TENT ON THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO?
When we decided to walk the Camino, we immediately estimated the budget and we got a little scared. We calculated the following:
– between 6 – 15 € per person for one night’s accommodation if we would get beds in the municipal albergue,
– 10-15 € for daily food per person, other expenses such as coffee every morning, cigarettes, pharmacy, etc.
All these, times two and the calculation reached about 1000 €/person for 35 days. Which is a very large sum for us.
BUDGET was the main reason why we decided to go with a tent and good that we did because we saved about 700 € for both.
That means we spent about:
- 650 €/person for 37 days on the Camino + 3 days in Finisterre and Muxia + 2 days in Santiago.
We are quite proud of ourselves because we have carefully planned our money without lacking anything.

First day on the Camino.
Along the way, we discovered a lot of reasons why we recommend you take the tent on the Camino:
1.First of all, you don’t need to rush to get a bed at the municipal albergue at the next destination. Many people wake up early to avoid the heat at noon. But especially to get a bed at the municipal albergue which is very cheap. With the tent you get rid of this daily stress and the early morning awakening. We would start our day sometime between 8 – 9 am, without stressing too much that we woke up late. We knew we would find a camping spot somewhere.
2. Second, as I said, you can find the most incredible views to fall asleep and wake up to. And for us, this was great because we saw some sunsets that we wouldn’t have experienced otherwise.
Beautiful sunset from the Ermita de San Lorenzo in Santa Gadea.
3. Third, you have a lot more sleeping options because you can put your tent in a lot of places. At many, you have access to water either for free or very cheap.
4. Fourth, we ate very well because we cooked every morning and evening. We wouldn’t have taken our cooking gear if we had not taken our tent.
But if you decide not to take your tent we recommend you to bring a pot, camping stove with gas, cutlery, bowl, mug. We bought ours from Decathlon and are very light and cheap PLUS spices and oil.
Not all the albergues have kitchens, not in all the albergues that have kitchens you can cook in the morning.
Moreover, you can make your coffee in the most beautiful places, you do not spend money on the pilgrim’s menu which costs 10 euros per person (!!!!!!) and you don’t end up eating sandwiches every day.

IS IT LEGAL TO CAMP IN NORTHERN SPAIN?
In Spain it’s illegal to camp in the wilderness.
But there is an unwritten law that allows you to set up your tent after sunset and pack it before sunrise. Never set more than two tents in the same place because it will be considered a camp.
We wild camped twice and it was amazing, we found places by instinct and were not too far from the route.
The other times we camped in curchyards, on campsites and in the yards of albergues. We wanted to be near a source of water for cooking and showering.
But our friend Gianluca camped very often in the wild and had no problem. Anyway, if you are a pilgrim it’s allowed to camp in more places as long as it is a bit more secluded.
So, don’t forget to take your pilgrim credential/passport, in case someone has a problem with you.
Nothing bad has ever happened to us, no one has said anything to us, neither during the day nor during the night.
WHERE DID WE CAMP ON THE CAMINO DEL NORTE?
We considered it easier to camp a little closer to civilization to have drinking water.
We didn’t bring a water filter with us. And to sleep peacefully at night. Because we weren’t yet experimenting with wild campers. And to be frank, we were a bit afraid of animals and spirits of the night.
So, for the first night, we camped in the yard of a church.
Then, we discovered the incredible network of campsites on the north coast of Spain. There are areas on the coast with campsites from 20 to 20 km.
Some are cheaper, some more expensive, some with discounts for pilgrims. You can also camp in albergues for half the price and so on.
Let’s see where we camped for 20 days out of 41 days (Camino + Finisterre and Muxia).
CAMPING IN NATURE ON THE CAMINO DEL NORTE
The first week, we camped on the bank of the Goiako Erreka river next to the Roman bridge Arzubi. It is about 18 km after Markina. We already had food, we bought beers and bread from a local shop that was about 2 km away.
And we enjoyed this extraordinary place that we warmly recommend.
In the last week, we camped in the forest near Muxia, a pine forest with flat and soft soil. It is a hidden place but very close to Muxia. You can see it as you enter the village on the right side.
CAMPING IN CAMPING GROUNDS ON THE CAMINO DEL NORTE
After staying for the first time at a campsite, we fell in love with the peaceful camping life. We told ourselves that if we ever need an apartment we will gladly live in a campsite.
The Spaniards love to travel with a tent, with the van, with the whole family. So there are many campsites along the Camino del Norte route.
To stay in campsites you have to pay for each person and for the plot you occupy. The prices vary depending on the season.
Also, in all the campsites where we stayed you have to pay for the electrical outlet. We never paid, we had an external battery and we asked our neighbors with sockets to charge our batteries.
Almost all the campsites on the coast are near beaches which is a super plus for us.
They all have a mini-market at the same prices as in the city. Many have a restaurant, separate bathrooms for women and men, hand washing and dishwasher area. So all that a pilgrim needs.
The campsites we camped on Camino de Santiago:
- Campsite Regaton in Laredo costed
– 3,5 €/person + 10 €/plot = 17 €/night/both.
Pretty good, considering that in Laredo we found only private hostels for 15 €/night/person. Here is where we took our day off and stayed for two nights.
- The Derby campsite in Loredo costed
– 4 €/person + 10 €/plot = 18 €/night/both.
- The campsite El Rosal near San Vicente de la Barquera costed
– 3,2 €/person + 10 €/plot = 16,4 €/night/both.
- The Playa de la Franca campsite costed
– 5 €/person + 10 €/plot = 20 €/night/both
This was the most expensive campsite. The albergue where we planned to put our tent was closed.
So it was a compromise solution that I didn’t regret. When we saw La Franca beach, which is the most beautiful beach we have ever seen, we realized it was worth it.
- The Playa de Troenzo campsite in Celorio costed
– 4 €/person + 4 €/plot = 12 €/night/both.
They gave us the plot with the most extraordinary view. They also made a discount for pilgrims and here is where we made our second two days break.
- The campsite La Muravela in El Pitu costed
– 4,5 €/person + 4,5 €/plot = 13,5 €/night/both.
They had discounts for pilgrims.
CAMPING IN THE CHURCHYARDS ON CAMINO DEL NORTE
I didn’t find this information on any blog before leaving. We found out that we could camp in churchyards without any problem.
Right from the first day on the Camino we arrived at the municipal albergue late and it was full. And the lady host pointed us to the church. She told us that we could camp without any problems near all the churches who have a yard. Yeeeeeey!
There are many churches with courtyards and green grass on the Camino del Norte. So all you need are food supplies.
Churches where we have camped:
- Ermita de San Martin near Orio – has a large yard with grass and a well with drinking water.
- Iglesia de San Roman in Cue – it was a backyard and a lovely view over the village
- Parroquia de Santa Maria de Tona in La Isla. When we arrived, the church was open and we asked for the priest’s permission. The church is right next to the beach which has public showers and toilets, perfect!
- Eremita de San Lorenzo in Santa Gadea – the most beautiful sunset of our lives.
- Iglesia de Nostra Señora de las Arenas in Finisterre. Across the church is a park with drinking water and a fireplace. We had a barbecue and enjoyed a beautiful view.
4+5. Ermita de San Lorenzo in Santa Gadea | 6. Parroquia de Santa Maria de Tona in La Isla
CAMPING IN THE YARDS OF ALBERGUES ON THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
Some albergues on Camino del Norte have a courtyard and allow you to camp for half the price. You have access to the kitchen and bathroom. And you are in contact with the rest of the pilgrims.
Albergues where we camped:
- Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos in Castro-Urdiales where we paid 3 €/person. It was full so we put up our tent.
- RiCa Hostel in San Miguel de Meruelo where we paid 5 €/person – it is a very nice and private hostel.
- Albergue de peregrinos Clara Campoamor în Requejada – 2 €/person. It is a municipal hostel that was full when we arrived.
- Albergue de peregrinos in Cadavedo – 5€/person – municipal hostel that was full when we arrived.
- Albergue La Casa Belen in Cueres – 7€/total. It is an albergue donativo with accommodation (we camped) and dinner included.
It can be difficult with a tent either if you are alone or two persons. No matter how much you try to cut the weight off, the tent and all the camping gear are heavy.
At first your back will hurt a little if you do not have training in carrying a 12 kg backpack. Both our backpacks weighed between 11-13 kg depending on how much food and water we were carrying.
It’s important to think it through! And ponder on your reasons and on your resources before you start walking the Camino with the tent.
We can tell you that it is possible to do it. And you will have some incredible experiences that you may not have without a tent.
Buen Camino, peregrinos!
Liz, Leo and the world